Textile Sampling Glossary

Approx Price★

The indicative selling price of a fabric sample, typically quoted per metre for 58″ and 36″ widths separately. SampleLedger stores approximate prices for both widths on each sticker.

Blend★

The fibre composition of a fabric, expressed as percentages of each fibre type. A common blend is 65% polyester / 35% cotton. Blend percentages must sum to 100%. Also called “composition” or “fibre content.”

Bulk Order

A production order placed after a sample has been approved by a buyer. Distinct from a trial order or sampling run.

Buyer Approval

The formal sign-off from a buyer that a sample meets their specifications. Typically required before bulk production begins.

Category★

A classification label assigned to a sample to group it within an organisation’s sample library. Examples: shirting, suiting, bottom weight, home textile. Defined per organisation in SampleLedger master tables.

Colour Variant★

A version of a fabric design in a specific colour. One design (identified by design number) can have multiple colour variants, each with its own MPN and sticker. Also called a “colorway.”

Colorway

See Colour Variant.

Composition

See Blend.

Count (Yarn Count)

A measure of yarn fineness. In the English count system (Ne), higher numbers indicate finer yarn. A 40s yarn is finer than a 20s yarn. Common in cotton spinning.

Design Number★

A unique identifier assigned to each fabric sample within an organisation’s system. SampleLedger supports auto-generated design numbers as well as manual entry. Design numbers must be unique within an organisation.

Dobby

A weave structure created on a dobby loom, capable of producing geometric patterns and small figures. Common in shirting fabrics.

EPI (Ends Per Inch)★

The number of warp yarns (ends) per inch of fabric width. Higher EPI generally indicates finer construction and denser fabric. Also written as “ends/inch.”

EPI×PPI★

The combined notation of ends per inch and picks per inch. In SampleLedger, this is stored as ‘epiPpi’ and derived from the EPI and PPI fields.

Finish Type★

A post-weaving or post-knitting treatment applied to the fabric. Common finish types include: mercerizing, sanforizing, calendering, peach finish, water repellent, and flame retardant. Defined per organisation in SampleLedger master tables.

GLM (Grams per Linear Metre)★

The weight of a fabric expressed in grams per linear metre (running metre) of the full loom width. GLM is preferred when comparing fabrics of different widths. Formula: GLM = GSM × (width in cm / 100).

GSM (Grams per Square Metre)★

The weight of a fabric expressed in grams per square metre. The most common weight measure in textile trading. A lightweight shirting fabric may be 80–120 GSM; a heavy suiting can exceed 300 GSM.

Handloom

Fabric woven on a traditional hand-operated loom. In SampleLedger, handloom is available as a type tag to categorise samples.

Jacquard

A complex weave structure controlled by a Jacquard loom mechanism, capable of producing intricate patterns and large figure repeats. Used for brocades, damasks, and decorative fabrics.

Lab Dip

A small colour sample prepared by a dye house to match a buyer’s target colour before bulk dyeing. Usually submitted for buyer approval before production.

Master Table★

An organisation-specific reference list in SampleLedger. Master tables define the valid values for categories, patterns, weaves, finish types, and colours. All samples reference master table values, ensuring consistent terminology across the library.

Mercerizing

A finishing process for cotton where the fabric is treated with sodium hydroxide to increase lustre, strength, and dye affinity.

MPN (Material Product Number)★

A unique identifier assigned to each colour variant of a fabric sample. In SampleLedger, MPNs are auto-generated by default but can be manually overridden. Each colour variant has exactly one MPN.

New Inquiry

In SampleLedger, a type tag that marks a sample as created in response to a new buyer inquiry, as opposed to a standard stock sample.

Organisation

In SampleLedger, a workspace that represents a single business entity (a manufacturer, trading house, or export firm). All samples, master tables, and users belong to one organisation. Data is isolated per organisation.

Pattern★

The visual or structural design characteristic of a fabric. Examples: plain, stripe, check, dobby, jacquard, floral. Defined per organisation in SampleLedger master tables.

PPI (Picks Per Inch)★

The number of weft yarns (picks) per inch of fabric length. Along with EPI, PPI defines the construction density of a woven fabric.

Piece Dyed

A fabric that is woven in its natural or greige state and then dyed to colour after weaving. Contrast with yarn-dyed fabric.

QR Code

A two-dimensional barcode that encodes a URL or other data. In SampleLedger, each sticker contains a unique QR code that links to a public spec page for that sample or colour variant. Any smartphone camera can scan it.

QR Spec Page

A public, login-free web page in SampleLedger that displays the key specifications of a fabric sample. Accessed by scanning the QR code on the sticker. Shows: design number, blend, warp, weft, GSM, GLM, width, and colour.

Sample Book

A physical collection of fabric swatches organised by design, typically used by sales representatives to show buyers a range of available fabrics.

Sanforizing

A mechanical fabric finishing process that pre-shrinks the fabric to prevent further shrinkage after washing. Common in cotton and linen fabrics.

Selvage

The self-finished edges of a woven fabric that run parallel to the warp direction and prevent fraying. The usable fabric width is measured between selvages.

Soft Delete★

In SampleLedger, deleted samples are not permanently removed. They are marked as deleted (soft-deleted) and can be restored with their full history intact.

Strike-Off

A small test piece of fabric printed or woven to check design, colour, or pattern accuracy before committing to bulk production.

Top Dyed

A dyeing method applied to loose fibres before they are spun into yarn. Produces blended colour effects in the final fabric.

Type Tag★

A multi-select label in SampleLedger that categorises a sample by its characteristics or origin. Available type tags include: handloom, newInquiry, warpChange, weftChange, yarnDyed, topDyed, pieceDyed.

Trial Order

A small production run ordered by a buyer to verify quality and production consistency before committing to full bulk quantity.

Variety★

In SampleLedger, variety refers to the count of colour variants attached to a sample. A sample with 4 colour variants has a variety of 4. The variety count is maintained automatically.

Warp★

The set of longitudinal yarns held under tension on a loom, running parallel to the length of the fabric. The warp is the “vertical” thread in a woven fabric. Recorded in SampleLedger as the warp yarn specification.

Warp Change

A colour variant or sample variation in which only the warp yarn colour or count has been changed from the parent design. In SampleLedger, this can be tagged using the ‘warpChange’ type tag.

Weave★

The interlacing pattern of warp and weft yarns in a woven fabric. Common weave types include: plain, twill, satin, dobby, jacquard, ripstop, and canvas. Defined per organisation in SampleLedger master tables.

Weft★

The yarns that run perpendicular to the warp, interlaced across the width of the fabric during weaving. Also called “filling” or “picks.” Recorded in SampleLedger as the weft yarn specification.

Weft Change

A colour variant in which only the weft yarn has been changed. Tagged ‘weftChange’ in SampleLedger.

Width★

The measured width of a fabric, typically in inches. Standard widths in SampleLedger: 58″ (standard loom width), 36″ (narrow width), or custom. Prices are often quoted separately per width.

Yarn Count

See Count.

Yarn Dyed

Fabric made from yarns that were dyed before weaving. Produces checks, stripes, and other woven colour patterns. Contrast with piece-dyed fabric.

Glossary in SampleLedger

Terms marked ★ are directly reflected in SampleLedger's data model. When you create a sample, each field corresponds to one of these terms with built-in validation — ensuring your sample library uses consistent, precise terminology.

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